Sleeves for my new Trestle

Been planning about sleeves for my new dandelion trestle. The sleeves on my first trestle were way too wide for my taste, a problem that seems to crop up in other people’s project comments, too. I do like dolman sleeves, but narrow at the forearms and not billowy throughout; that’s something else another kind of sleeves I don’t like or know a name for. Since I already have a dolman-like sleeved version, I think I’ll try to make his next sweater with more normal / narrow sleeves; especially since it’s getting warmer out so excessive sleeves are unnecessary for warmth.

So I was thinking about the increase pattern of the lower sleeve triangles at a ratio of 1:3. We know that 1:1 increases, that is one increase on each end of right side rows, gives us 45-45-90 triangles. So anything increasing less frequently on one side would give us something less than 90 degrees.

I drew out the two starting triangles as they are written in the pattern approximating the angles based on the ratios of the sides and assuming right triangles for simplicity. It’s immediately obvious what’s wrong with the sleeves. The approx. 70 degree angle on the lower corner of the starting sleeve triangles tilts the forearms so they get way too wide too fast. The starting angle needs to be way way smaller.

Original sleeve schematics
Original sleeve schematics

I drew a new plan reducing the starting angle to 45 degrees and made some calculations based on my Antler sleeves, which I rather like the shaping on. Knitted some triangles to test my measurements, it’s looking spot on!

Planned sleeve schematics
Planned sleeve schematics

Started my “recalculated sleeve triangles” stuck together so I can do the sleeves in the round. Slightly trickier than doing the body triangles in the round, because there’s right and left triangles whereas for the body all the foundation triangles are exactly the same. For the sleeves, what’s called “left” in the pattern ends up on the right and vice versa at the beginning. When it’s joined up with the CDD in the round it makes a lot more sense (to the extent that making sleeves out of triangles makes sense).

Two sleeve triangles stuck together for in-the-round sleeves.

I knitted up a mini version, in the round, of the new sleeves using yarn leftover from my Bonaparte and… It’s pretty good! Props to me on my ninja trig skills. Think the garter stitch on the bias is a lot stretchier than the drapey fabric of the Antler however, so I readjusted the measurements down a little more (blue writing in schematic). My mini sleeve finished blocking and it’s looking good, measures exactly as calculated! The width blocked could be workable too, maybe for the same looser feel that the original pattern has. Me – I’m going with narrower sleeves.

Mini sleeve blocked
Blocked mini sleeve swatch, recalculation looking good!

UPDATE: After attempting sleeves and restarting a couple times with narrower width, I find that I should just follow what I calculated originally.


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