Calculating for shoulder height, hope it works ok. Got approximate shoulder heights from my Knitter’s Companion book. Will definitely need gussets to augment shoulder height. Using blocked and unblocked gauges, calculated total sleeve length to knit unblocked, and where to separate sleeve seam for gusset. For gusset size, started with size in pattern but I hunk it will be too big because it’s written for dolman style shoulders and I just want normal shoulders. So reduced size of gussets, too, in calculations. Used 45-45-90 triangle dimensions to calcluate everything, basically just have to transform everything by root-2 before converting between stitches/rows and centimeters. Hope this works in the final sweater!
Hmm I think it’s turning out too narrow now. I should have trusted my calculations silly me. I moved the start of increases from the 17th garter ridge, as calculated, to the 28th because it seemed too close to the wrist. But is should have known better to trust the math! It was the same story with the waist shaping for the body on my first Romani Trestle, the triangles look tiny but the length measurements are spot on in the end.
Ripping back to start shaping increases at the 20th garter ridge (17 is still a little early), and 20cm wrists. The 19cm is too narrow and 21cm was still a little loose in garter on the bias.
With 20 sts per triangle, start increases = 22sts. Increase every 6th row 16 times. Work triangles to 62 rows / 31 garter ridges = 32sts + 4 increase sts, total 36sts per triangle.
After increase row with 46sts per triangle = 31.8cm at underarm seam, turn and knit next row (WS), CO 1 at end of row. Continue for 15 more rows, end with WS row…
Should have started separation with RS row and knit for 16 more rows oops. Also total measures 40cm rather than 36.5cm (or 38.5cm) now, guess I didn’t lie it flat when measuring it before separating. The triangles scrunch up and are hard to measure. To get accurate measurements I should probably have knit based on calculated number of rows rather than trying to measure length. I now have 66 garter ridges or 132 rows for whatever that’s worth.
But since I based my sleeve length calculation off sleeves of total 45cm, but meant to do 47cm sleeves… Well it should be all ok after blocking I hope! Feels short when I slide it over my arm now.